Different Types of Textile Block Printing in India
By Chhap by Atharv, Jaipur · Updated 1 October 2026 · 4 min read · Hand Block Printing
Quick answer: Textile block printing in India can be grouped by technique (direct, resist and discharge printing) and by region. Well-known regional styles include Bagru, Sanganeri and Dabu from Rajasthan, Ajrakh from Gujarat, Bagh print from Madhya Pradesh, Farrukhabad printing from Uttar Pradesh, and block-printed Kalamkari from Andhra Pradesh.
"Block print" covers a wide family of techniques and regional styles. Knowing the main types helps you understand what you are looking at, compare prices fairly and choose the right fabric for a saree, suit or home project.
Types of Block Printing by Technique
1. Direct block printing
The most common method. Colour (or a mordant that later becomes colour) is stamped directly onto plain or pre-dyed fabric. Sanganeri florals and Bagru's black-and-red designs are typical examples.
2. Resist block printing
A paste is printed onto fabric to stop dye from reaching certain areas. The cloth is then dyed and the paste is washed off, leaving a lighter pattern. Rajasthan's Dabu mud-resist is the best-known example. Learn more in What Is Dabu Print?
3. Discharge block printing
Fabric is dyed first, then a paste that removes colour is printed onto it, creating light motifs on a dark ground. The discharged areas can also be re-coloured.
| Technique | What the block applies | Result |
|---|
| Direct | Colour or mordant | Coloured motif on fabric |
| Resist | Mud, wax or gum paste | Light motif on dyed ground |
| Discharge | Colour-removing paste | Light motif on pre-dyed ground |
Regional Block Printing Styles of India
Bagru print (Rajasthan)
From Bagru, near Jaipur. Known for earthy colours, especially black and rust-red on a cream harda-treated base, bold motifs and indigo resist work. A registered Geographical Indication. Shop Bagru printed sarees or Bagru print fabric.
Sanganeri print (Rajasthan)
From Sanganer, on Jaipur's southern edge. Known for fine floral motifs and delicate outlines, mostly on white or off-white fabric. Also a registered Geographical Indication. See Sanganeri printed sarees.
Dabu print (Rajasthan)
A mud-resist technique strongly associated with Bagru and also practised in places such as Akola in Chittorgarh district. Typically paired with indigo. See Dabu indigo print sarees.
Ajrakh (Gujarat)
Associated with Kutch in Gujarat (and Sindh across the border). Known for complex geometric patterns in deep indigo, crimson and black, often printed on both sides of the cloth using multiple stages of resist and mordant printing.
Bagh print (Madhya Pradesh)
From Bagh in Dhar district. Known for natural-dye prints, often red and black on white, and protected as a Geographical Indication.
Farrukhabad printing (Uttar Pradesh)
From Farrukhabad, a historic printing centre known for fine block-printed textiles. Also registered as a Geographical Indication.
Kalamkari (Andhra Pradesh)
Kalamkari includes a hand-painted style using a pen (kalam) and a block-printed style associated with Machilipatnam and Pedana.
Quick Comparison of Regional Styles
| Style | Region | Signature look |
|---|
| Bagru | Rajasthan | Earthy black, red, indigo; bold motifs |
| Sanganeri | Rajasthan | Fine florals on white |
| Dabu | Rajasthan | Mud-resist, pale motifs on indigo |
| Ajrakh | Gujarat | Geometric, indigo-crimson, double-sided |
| Bagh | Madhya Pradesh | Red and black on white, natural dyes |
| Farrukhabad | Uttar Pradesh | Fine block prints |
| Kalamkari (block) | Andhra Pradesh | Earthy tones, figurative and floral |
Which Block Print Is Right for You?
- Daily wear and summer: Bagru, Sanganeri or Dabu on cotton. See choosing a summer cotton saree.
- Office wear: fine Sanganeri or small-scale Bagru motifs.
- Home furnishings: Sanganeri for bright rooms, Bagru or indigo for warm, earthy spaces.
Still deciding between Jaipur's two main styles? Read Bagru vs Sanganeri print.
Chhap by Atharv focuses on Rajasthan's Bagru, Sanganeri and Dabu prints across sarees, suits, fabric and home furnishings. Send us an enquiry.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the main types of block printing?
By technique, the main types are direct printing, resist printing and discharge printing. By region, well-known styles include Bagru, Sanganeri, Dabu, Ajrakh, Bagh, Farrukhabad and block-printed Kalamkari.
Which state is famous for block printing in India?
Rajasthan is especially famous, with Bagru and Sanganer near Jaipur. Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh and Andhra Pradesh also have notable block printing traditions.
What is the difference between Ajrakh and Bagru print?
Ajrakh comes from Gujarat (Kutch) and is known for complex geometric patterns, often double-sided, in indigo, crimson and black. Bagru comes from Rajasthan and is known for bold, earthy motifs and Dabu resist.
What is discharge printing?
Discharge printing removes colour from pre-dyed fabric using a printed paste, creating light patterns on a dark background.
Is Dabu a type of block printing?
Yes. Dabu is a resist block printing technique in which mud paste is stamped onto fabric with wooden blocks before dyeing.